Fixing up a C-More Replica (Potentiometer & LED Module)

I had an issue with a potentiometer on a C-More Replica.  The dot would not shut off unless you had it firmly turned all the way.  After reading a post on Brian Enos, I decided to give the pot some more clearance to reduce the chance of it getting turned on.  Here we go:

    1. Remove the sight from the rail mount
    2. Remove the bottom cover that holds in the the circuit board

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Pop the circuit board out.

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Bend up the Pot from the board. You may have de-solder the legs that hold the pot on the board. You can leave the actual leads in place:
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Pic of the pot underside.  Bend up the tabs that hold the cover and PCB board together.
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Here the case is removed from the pot.  We need to trim the lead on the left side of the board so the LED will shut off sooner.  This can be done with an Exacto knife.
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Here is what you need to remove:
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Here you can see the trimmed version.  I removed about 50% of the silver tips.
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You might want to check all the solder connections, I re-soldered all of them for good measure.
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After I put it all back together I decided to replace the LED module with an authentic C-More module this really helped the brightness of the dot and eliminated the dot washout that the replicas experience (the dot is brighter at the bottom and very dim at the top of the lens).   Here are some pics that will help you spot a non-authentic module:

C-More on the left (they have a color code at the bottom) and the generic module on the right.
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C-More left, generic right:
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C-More left, generic right:
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Overall I’m happy with this combo. It’s definitely good enough now for a practice gun!

 

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3 thoughts on “Fixing up a C-More Replica (Potentiometer & LED Module)

  1. Hello Mr.

    Goob job Mr.
    I have a question.
    How I get authentic C-More module ?
    I live in south Korea.

    I want to replace it

    Thank you.

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